For the prophet Moses it was a journey that lasted 40 years. For my 40th birthday I gave myself just four days to cover the same territory.
Of course, I could have splashed the cash in New York or treated myself to some serious pampering at a top-notch spa. But I wanted the wow factor and I wasn’t disappointed.
It’s the lure of the ancient “lost” city of Petra and the dramatic sandstone deserts, made famous by Lawrence of Arabia that led me to Jordan.
Even so, I had not reckoned on the integral part the Old Testament prophet would play in this trip.
Jordan, a cosmopolitan country
Despite being bordered by Iraq, Saudi Arabia, Syria and Israel, Jordan is a surprisingly cosmopolitan country. Ok, so stray shepherds still herd their sheep through the capital Amman but it’s a modern, welcoming city and the gateway to a country full of natural and man made wonder.
Mount Nebo
Travelling with a small adventure group the pace is fast and exhilarating. Our first stop is Moses’ final resting place. He never reached the promised land of “milk and honey” but he got a breath taking view of it from the top of Mount Nebo. Overlooking the valley of the River Jordan, with Jericho and Jerusalem clearly visible in the distance, it’s hard to tell where biblical mythology ends and the tourist trail starts.
Desert Highway
Driving south along the Desert Highway, said to follow the ancient track that Moses travelled along more than 3000 years ago, is like speeding back in time. It’s not unusual to see camels wondering across the carriageway, or the nomadic Bedouins pitching their tents at the roadside.
Its only the battered Jeeps and local tribesmen on their mobile phones that jolts us back to the 21st century as we pitched camp for a night under the stars in the Wadi Rum.
Wadi Rum
The Wadi Rum is an area of protected desert with dramatic red sandstone mountains and dunes.
Made famous by the epic film “Lawrence of Arabia” this is where the British officer T.E. Lawrence camped during the Arab Revolt in the First World War. Our guide is delighted to show us the rock formation named the “Seven Pillars of Wisdom” after Lawrence’s book.
But the reason to visit this desert is to watch the sunrise and set turning the stunning landscape blood red and to marvel at the 4,000 year old rock carvings. Of course, no visit is complete without the ubiquitous camel ride.
Petra
Our last stop is Jordon’s jewel in the crown, Petra. A UNESCO heritage site, this ancient city is hidden behind an almost impenetrable barrier of rugged mountains. At the top of the mountains, beyond the reach of most tourists, is a white tomb, said to be the burial place of Moses’ brother Aaron.
The approach to Petra is through a long, narrow gorge or Siq at the end of which is the our first glimpse of the massive facade of the Petra’s most famous monument, the Treasury.
The wonders continue down the valley. Hundreds of tombs and places of worship tower down from cliff faces on either side. Not to be missed is the huge and beautifully carved Monastery, an hour’s climb and 800 steps up from the city centre.
It was the Nabateans who carved the vast city out of the sand stone rock more than 2000 years ago. Today it’s beauty and size are still overwhelming.
The history of the area is as ancient as the Bible. As we pass a small spring on our way out of Petra our guide nonchalantly remarks that Moses struck the rock and with his staff causing water to flow out. True or not it’s a great story.
